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MMO in Oil and GAS

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yomincarr
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MMO in Oil and GAS Empty MMO in Oil and GAS

Post by Admin 2/24/2010, 23:42

This product referred to as MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil.
The product was invented many many years ago, some time before WW2... and to this day has been used in engines with very good ratings.

The product has around 900ppm Phosphorus, which is the anti wear additive found in your motor oil.
It also has mineral spirits, and a few other acid inhibitors...

All and all it cleans the engine from gunk, sludge, and carbon deposits. It also lubricates and protects parts.

Walmart sells it for 3.77$ a Quart, and I use it on every oil change and tank fill up.

In the oil I add about 1/2qt at around 2500mi and I dump it at 5000mi.
In the fuel I add it at 4oz/10gal, and I noticed that it also quiets down the injector tick.

In the fuel its good for lubricating the fuel pump, and cleaning deposits on the injectors... also its good for upper cylinder lube.
In some cases it cleans up the carobn deposits on the piston rings and improves seal, and compression of your enigne.

In the oil it cleans mostly sludge etc.... its good to be used 1000-2000mi before the next oil change... also if your engine has sludge the oil will change color rather quickly.


good fogging oil
reduces wear
good cleaner
protects upper cylinder
better gas mileage
thinner, helps cold starting
increases oil pressure
engine got quiet

70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff


So if your car has 100K or like mine 145K then go give it a try... Top off your oil if its low, and use the rest in the next few fill ups and see if your MPGs get better. See if your oil changes color too.
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Post by Admin 2/24/2010, 23:54

My latest oil change.
MMO in Oil and GAS DSC04758
MMO in Oil and GAS DSC04759
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Post by yomincarr 2/25/2010, 22:43

what did you change to and from? How come you changed weights? I used gumout regane the other day and i am already seeing a mpg improvement...usually at 75 miles on a 3/4 tank, now im at 100. i tried Seafoam in my subaru but it ate itself to pieces shortly there after so im always skeptical of these 'wonder' fuel treatments...
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Post by Admin 2/26/2010, 00:03

Previously I was using Mobil 1 5W-30 with LUCAS but then I found out how bad Lucas was, noting in it except thickener...

5W-30 has a Visc Index of 10...
10W-30 is around 13, and Lucas is 124... so you can imagine how thick it is.

I also used Valvoline products but then came across a bunch of info on what is in the oils and I found out that the best oil out there is M1 HM 10W-30 non energy conserving.

Sad thing is the SJ, and SM oil ratings, get worse and worse with every new rating, since they have to meet GOV'T requirements.
The latest ratings have very low levels of antiwear agents, and more cleaning crap...

Thats why the Rotella and M1 non EC are some of the best oils out there.
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Post by ARMY_MP_From_MO 3/7/2010, 11:14

I just changed to Royal Purple and Z-max. I'm hoping for good results.
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Post by CateraMV6 3/7/2010, 13:30

Thumbs up on the Royal Purple, but thumbs down on the Z-max, the folks on the BITOG are totaly against it...

Most say it does nothing, and costs a lot.
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Post by yomincarr 3/7/2010, 22:00

Ive heard a lot about royal purple but never tried it myself...what are the benefits? hopefully its available in non synthetic.
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Post by CateraMV6 3/7/2010, 22:05

Here is the deal...

Oils have a variety of properties and additives.
What you need to know is what additives you need and what your oil has...

The image below gives you idea of what does what...
MMO in Oil and GAS ComparisonsMOBIL1Metals2

And this image shows some of the values you can find in Mobil 1 oils.

I know its hard to see but I will update it very soon.
MMO in Oil and GAS ComparisonsMOBIL1Metals1
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Post by ARMY_MP_From_MO 5/5/2010, 11:43

I've very pleased with Royal Purple oil and the Z-Max. I've increased my MPG from 23 to 25. I can't contribute it to either of these, but I haven't changed gas or driving habits. One thing I find that is strange, if I drive like a lil old lady I get worse MPG, but if I hammer down I get better MPG. scratch
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Post by CateraMV6 5/6/2010, 21:15

My last change consisted of 15W-40 Rotella 2 Qts. and 4Qts, M1 10W-30, I think I am going to switch to 15W-40 entirely, as its the next step up for worn engines.
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Post by Matera97 5/6/2010, 21:20

Do you think the thicker oil will aid an angry oil pump as the warmer weather comes?
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Post by yomincarr 5/6/2010, 23:02

i didnt know you could mix viscosities like that...
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Post by CateraMV6 5/7/2010, 13:04

For hot weather you typically want something that has more viscosity what people dont know is that the first number is only the cold weather viscosity, so they switch from 5W-30 to 10W-30 but the hot weather viscosity is listed as the 30... and since you are not changing that you are basically driving the same oil because both will perform at the same level when its 80deg outside.

For an older engine with more loose ends, and some leaks, you are better off running 10W-30 Winter and 15W-40 Summer, I do a mix of both of those year round... say 1qt 15W-40 mixed with 5qts of 10W-30 winter oil, and then fro the summer i increase the mix of 15W-40 to maybe 2-3 qts.

The result is a somewhat thicker oil that seems to do wonders for my exhaust valve seal leaks...
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Post by Matera97 5/7/2010, 13:27

Will be picking a quart up for the next change. Gonna start slow and increase amount over time. Is it best to put the 10W-30 in first than the thicker stuff, or the thick stuff than 10W-30? Does it matter?
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Post by CateraMV6 5/7/2010, 13:40

If I remember correctly the viscosity index of each oil was only different by about 2 points...

5W30 was at something like 9.... where 10W-30 was at 11... so by doubling the 1st digit it doesnt make the oil twice as thick...

15W-40 is just slightly thicker then 10W-30 and in synthetic form I think its close to the 10W in cold weather.
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Post by lt56026 9/14/2010, 08:00

The w in 5w30 has nothing too do with weather it means that it flows like 5 weight oil but it is actually 30weight and if you have problems of losing oil presure in summer u most likly have bade main bearings
don't mix syn with conventional oil they do not mix like oil and water
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