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How to: 3.8Bar FPR.

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yomincarr
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Post by CateraMV6 3/8/2010, 23:14

After porting and polishing, the next step was to match some of that extra air with extra fuel by tricking the ECU.

The stock Catera FPR is 3.0 Bar which is roughly 45psi.
The stock CTS 3.2L FPR is 3.8 Bar and that is close to 55psi.

Catera fuel injector is 225cc/min
CTS Fuel injector is 240cc/min

IN the future I will have the ECU chipped and reprogrammed through a European tuner but for now its staying as is.

Here is the differences. .
How to: 3.8Bar FPR. DSC05435
How to: 3.8Bar FPR. DSC05437
How to: 3.8Bar FPR. DSC05441

Now here is the though process after the above upgrade.

The size difference of the injectors wont matter much but the increased Fuel PSI will alow for a much better spray, and thus better atomization of the fuel. Once fuel is mixed with more air you can produce more power.

At 55psi the fuel is sprayed much better then at 45psi and the difference is quite noticeable.

Before the upgrade at say 3000rpm in 2nd gear, if you hit WOT, there was a bit of hesitation and then power started to climb. Now with the new FPR power seems instant, and the car pulls very hard through the rest of the RPMs.

I was surprised of how much porting and larger FPR improved the top end of the power band.

At 5500-6500rpm power is insane and never drops off..

Also noticed at 70mph and WOT, power is instantaneous and there is no delay, it also pulls much harder now with the torque converter not being locked quite yet.

Once its locked the sprint between 80-90mph is mind boggling. NO more flat spots along the power band, you can feel the motor breathing a lot better and as a result the power it makes is quite nice too.

My scan gauge had a max HP of 186HP before the upgrades, tonight i saw it hit 194HP at the top of 2nd gear.
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Post by yomincarr 3/9/2010, 21:29

Wow! 194 thats amazing. im curious as to what the stock baseline numbers are. with a little more tuning im guessing you can top the 200 mark. I assume the bar is the Fuel Rail? How do you know the fuel psi do you have a gauge?
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Post by Admin 3/9/2010, 23:29

Seen a few stock cateras with dyno numbers.

A 97 dropped a sad 158hp...
A 98 did a good 162...
And a 99 sport at 165....

Then a stock CTS with 3.2L dropped a 185hp...

Then my car got on there, first run was 183, engine cold...
2nd run was 187 and final run was 194, and to verify we ran it again it got 195.

Mods at the time were intake filter, and catback exhaust.
Also fresh oil and some Lucas additive.
Used a bit of octane booster too...

Any automatic car will loose around 20-23% of its power through the drive train.
A manual is in the 15-17% Range.

So a 160-165RWHP is totaly normal for these cars.

Mine being in the 190s means the crank HP is more like 220-230

WIthe the new FPR I have no gauge to measure it but the pump pushes aroudn 60-65psi, and the FPR only lets around 45psi in the fuel rail in the old case and now with the new one its around 57psi...

Higher pressure will cause a finer mist from the injector but the ECu will reduce the pulse width to compensate for the larger size.
In terms the car will likely still run at 14.7:1 Stoichiometric Ratio but teh fuel atomization will happen much better.
With better fuel mixture you can expect a better burn and more power to the crankshaft.

Also the new injectors have 50k instead of 150k as the old ones, so I am sure the spray pattern alone will show benefits.
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Post by yomincarr 3/11/2010, 12:05

Ok, Is the FPR the cylinder? is there a way to adjust it, or the pressure? Im assuming the pulse width is referring to the length of time the injector fires? also what is the 3.8 bar a measure of? Finally whats the safest pressure you could work with before it starts becomming dangerous?
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Post by CateraMV6 3/11/2010, 12:22

yomincarr wrote:Ok, Is the FPR the cylinder? is there a way to adjust it, or the pressure? Im assuming the pulse width is referring to the length of time the injector fires? also what is the 3.8 bar a measure of? Finally whats the safest pressure you could work with before it starts becomming dangerous?



FPR = Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Most new vehicles have Return-Less fuel lines where fuel only goes to the engine, and there is an accumulator there that can store some PSI and release as needed untill the overal pressure drups to a level... then the fuel pump gets a signal and it repressurirses the system again...

This I heard saves energy since the fuel pump is on 1/2 the time and the alternator puts less load on the engine.


In our cars the pump is on all the time pumping around 60-65psi, sending that the the fuel rail where the FPR reduces it to 3.0Bar = 45psi (1bar=14.7PSI), and in the case of the 3.2L Omega motor its a 3.8BAR which is 57 PSI.

The higher the psi the finer the mist will be from the injector. I also think this is the biggest explanation for the difference that I am experiencing.

As far as safe goes, not sure if there is such a thing since if you remove the FPR you will be running at max fuel pump psi. ON turbo cars often cure for low fuel is smashing the FPR and making it give max amount of fuel all the time that way they get a 12 or even 11:1 mixture which is pig rich but its good for boosted applications since it reduces the chance of detonations...

In other words if you ever come across a 3.2L FPR get it and give it a try, you will be surprised of what it will do for you.

Also I have driven 1 full tank now without check engine lights, power is up, fuel economy is fantastic, I was getting 20mpg around town the other day.
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Post by CateraMV6 3/11/2010, 16:32

Found this somewhere in my old stuff...

I think it was around the time I did the exhaust...

How to: 3.8Bar FPR. Untitled
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Post by yomincarr 3/11/2010, 23:27

ok, that makes sense, its always good to brush up and learn more of the basics...if its giving you better gas mileage its something ill definately look into...anything to pinch a penny Very Happy
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Post by CateraMV6 3/11/2010, 23:31

Only problem will be finding those components, as I went through hell to get mine...
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Post by yomincarr 3/11/2010, 23:45

where did you get yours? if they came off a CTS, should be accessible from my local junkyard, 'Cadillac Heaven'
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Post by Matera97 3/12/2010, 14:51

Did you get a quote from GM for the part?
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Post by CateraMV6 3/12/2010, 19:11

Well I got mine from the Y32SE motor which is exactly whats in the CTS but they call it the LA3... same thing.

If you come across a CTS in the yard, definitely take the manifold off, and the entire fuel system, its attached to the intake runners between the heads...

I got the wiring harness, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator, with manifold, and TB for 100$... only problem was I couldn't find anyone that would let me dig in the engine, most wanted to keep them as is.

Otherwise you can take everything off in about 15min with just a couple tools...
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Post by yomincarr 3/12/2010, 19:14

holy cow! 100$ for all that??? thats great...one injector alone is probably worth that much!
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Post by CateraMV6 3/12/2010, 19:18

For the CTS I think in the 65-100$ for the Catera they are more like 150 and up...

So yeah if you can get the entire assembly for that you will be golden.

I soaked mine in injector cleaner for a few days and that seemed to have cleaned them form the inside because the liquid turned darker yellow... from clear.
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Post by CateraMV6 3/12/2010, 19:32

here is a complete assembly, injectors with fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail, clips etc.. for about 120 shipped... I bet you can offer them a lower price and they will take it. Its been for sale for ever....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Fuel-Injectors-Rail-2003-2004-Cadillac-CTS_W0QQitemZ390156364627QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad721ab53#ht_1846wt_754
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Post by CateraMV6 3/12/2010, 19:44

Its been my observation that a lot of the Opel Calibras in europe get tuned with larger FPR, usually stock injectors but sometimes upgraded too, with larger throttle bodies...

A ECU Remap will help but our cars were made with OBD and most of the Europeans werent... so our ECU software is more different, KWP 2000 I think... and the euro one is a CAN system I think...
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Post by yomincarr 3/12/2010, 20:11

so im guessing wed have to go with a european tuned chip? but then would it even pass inspections, obviously every state is different. BTW did you get yours yet?
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Post by Seniorevilpants 7/29/2011, 16:56

This is Def. a Good Thread.. Ill be sure to scavenge some local junkyards for a CTS rail now.. Thanks OP
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Post by yomincarr 7/29/2011, 21:47

yea dont forget ebay they used to have a few for $100 with injectors
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Post by Seniorevilpants 7/30/2011, 09:01

nice. ill be keeping an eye out then.
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Post by yomincarr 7/30/2011, 23:35

not as cheap as they used to be unfortunately :-(

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=cts+3.2+fuel+&_sacat=0&_odkw=cts+3.2+fuel+rail&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313
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Post by globuslive 1/4/2013, 19:52

Hey guys, just found the topic. I have 2000 catera. Willing to upgrade my injectors. MV6, did you chip tuned the engine finally??? What outcome did you get if so? Also I found one web site, where mecanics say it's not recommended. I know, not a lot of them know what they say, but who has this upgrade in long term use, please share some knowlege. Thanks guys!

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Post by Admin 1/4/2013, 20:25

No way to chip the ECU, no one here deals with them and the guys in Europe have slightly different ECU. ours is tuned for different compression ratio and emissions and also different octane.

Fuel injector clean or replacement at high millage beyond 200k deff helps.
I felt a big difference around 4000rpm where there used to be a dead spot now it climbs constantly and the power band never flattens.

Intake clean up with mild port and polish will also help and that can be done at home in about 3-4hrs. Worth the time trust me.
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Post by globuslive 1/4/2013, 20:33

Admin wrote:No way to chip the ECU, no one here deals with them and the guys in Europe have slightly different ECU. ours is tuned for different compression ratio and emissions and also different octane.

Fuel injector clean or replacement at high millage beyond 200k deff helps.
I felt a big difference around 4000rpm where there used to be a dead spot now it climbs constantly and the power band never flattens.

Intake clean up with mild port and polish will also help and that can be done at home in about 3-4hrs. Worth the time trust me.

I hear you, and trust Very Happy . Could you explain a bit more of the process of polishing the intake? So basically do i have to make it shiny using rotary tool??? I have CTS 3.2, and with the very similar HP, CTS runs much funnier. If I got Catera runs with the same mood, I probably would preffer Catera ))), but, really, I love them both Smile

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Post by Admin 1/4/2013, 20:38

I have a link to how i did this on my car somewhere. Basically took the entire manifold off flipped it upside down and looked through the openings. Then I saw where the upper and lower halfs do not meet perfectly and created a rib or edge that would hinder flow. With a dremel or rotary tool I shaved off those area opening them as much as I can much like a funnel at the very top.

I also used the gaskets to match the openigns on the bottom end. Near the throttle body I opened up the casting as much as I could.

Look through here you will find out what i did.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3006002/2001-opel-omega/
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Post by globuslive 1/5/2013, 12:59

Opel Omega ))) Lol mate, nice Catera you have! A lot of cool info out there. definitely gonna Port those things. Easy to do and beneficial!!! As soon as I get to my Catera, i'm starting on that project! Have you ever thought about putting manual in it? I saw Omega 3000 with manual, guy loved that car, it was limited anniversary edition, with black leather interrior, full of options as Catera has. Once I drove on Omega Caravan 1.8L. It was work horse, pretty slow compared to 3L but it was manual tranny, and I was able to make some donuts with no problems )))

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Post by globuslive 1/5/2013, 13:14

When I had Catera 1998, I wanted to put tweaked chip in it. Opel Omega has that option, but when I took apart Catera ECM, it was way different inside.... Very dissapointed.....

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Post by Admin 1/6/2013, 12:34

Well a chip wont do much as far as HP, maybe you will gain 5-6hp but you will not feel it at all.

Best gain would be from a nice open exhaust and maybe a KN filter with a bit of intake polish.

My car dynoed at 194WHP and something like 210lbft torque so the engine at such high millage is defiantly still underrated.
To compare, there was a BMW M3 E36 I think it was 1996 or 97 and it put down a solid 180WHP now from the factory those were around 240 so that goes to show you how nice the catera engine actually is.
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Post by globuslive 1/6/2013, 15:49

Can't upload links yet, but it sais 20 PS + and some Torque.
But it's not gonna work on any Catera, inside of the ECM is way different, I would say it looks much simpler than Opel's one for 1997-99 models. Have you ever tried OpCom scan device for Opel?

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Post by Admin 1/6/2013, 15:56

I did I bought one and I didnt find it to work very well at all it was extremely slow and lagged a lot so to me that is not a good working alternative. I would suggest buying a scangauge if you want to read engine data.
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Post by globuslive 1/6/2013, 17:17

I have Innova 3060 and OpCom. With OpCom I was able to find SRS system's errors, it brought me to door sensor. I replaced the sensor, but wasn't able to reset the Airbag lights. Dealer did it for free. I used Vectra 2.5 protocol to be able to see that. Also you can read some info from EBCTM module, if not, then aluminium wire is cut (our common issues). So I would say it works partically. Innova has option to read abs and srs, but nothing works on Catera, basic ECM diagnostics only. I messed around for long time with OpCom, saved me some money on SRS system though. Have you tried to Polish whole intake manifold's channels yet? Thinking to do that! Might increase some smooth airflow, what do you think?

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